Free Receipt Holder Tutorial

Welcome! This is a tutorial for a receipt holder–a little case to hold the receipts that would otherwise be floating around in your purse.  These also work great as a place to keep gas receipts for the glove compartment of your car.

This is part of a series of tutorials I’m putting together for purse accessories to organize the inside of your purse.


Yep, you try to organize your receipts in a pocket but then one day you’re in a hurry at the gas station and you just stuff your receipt in a different pocket.  Then over time all of the pockets in your purse have receipts and you no longer care.  So, the next trip to the grocery store, you just stuff it in your purse ’cause it’s all a big mess anyway?

Am I the only one that does this?

Probably not.

So, this is  a tutorial to make an easy case to hold receipts.  It has 2 pockets and NO ZIPPERS.  A zipper is a fine thing, but I wanted to make this the easiest project possible.

So, let’s get started.


Cut out the following:

Main Fabric

  • Cut one piece 8″ H x 6″ W for exterior.
  • Cut one piece 4-1/4″ H x 6″ W for pocket #1.
  • Cut one piece 3-1/2″ H x 6″ W for pocket #2.

Coordinating Fabric

  • Cut one piece 8″ H x 6″ W for interior.
  • Cut one piece 2-1/2″ H x 6″ W for flap closure strap.


Light to Medium weight fusible interfacing, such as Pellon Shapeflex (SF101).

  • Cut one piece 8″ H x 6″ W for exterior
  • Cut one piece 4-1/4″ H x 6″ W for pocket #1.
  • Cut one piece 3-1/2″ H x 6″ W for pocket #2.
  • Cut one piece 8″ H x 6″ W for interior.
  • Cut one piece 2-1/2″ H x 5-1/2″ W for flap closure strap.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of corresponding fabric pieces. Center the strap interfacing onto the strap.

2. Finish top edge of pocket #1

  • Zig-zag upper edge of pocket to prevent fraying.
  • Fold upper edge of pocket 1/2″ toward wrong side of fabric and press.
  • Topstitch 1/8″ from upper edge.
Step 2

Step 2

3. Finish top edge of pocket #2

  • Follow Step 2 to finish upper edge of pocket #2 in the same manner as pocket #1.
Steps 2 and 3

Steps 2 and 3

4. Attach pockets

  • Place pocket #1 on interior piece, aligning bottom edge and sides.
  • Place pocket #2 over pocket #1, aligning bottom edge and sides.
  • Baste sides with a 1/8″ seam.
  • Baste bottom edge with a 1/8″ seam.
Step 4

Step 4

5. Sew flap closure strap

  • Fold 3″ H x 6″ W strip in half  along long side (to be 1-1/2″ x 6″).
  • Open strap up and fold long sides in to meet along center fold. Press.
Step 5-1

Step 5-1

  • Fold again along center fold (to be 5/8″ x 6″).
  • Topstitch long sides 1/8″ from edges.
Step 5-2

Step 5-2

6. Attach strap

  • Place bottom edge of strap 1-3/4″ up from bottom edge of receipt holder.
  • Baste 1/8″ from sides.
Step 6

Step 6

7. Trim interior and exterior pieces

  • Place Exterior piece over Interior piece, right sides together. Pin along bottom and in center.
  • Mark top center and mark 1″ down from top right corner and top left corner.  Align ruler along line from top center to 1″ markings and trim on both sides, as shown below.
Step 7

Step 7

8. A little more trimming on upper sides

  • Trim right side at an angle starting 1/4″ in from upper right corner and ending at upper right side of pocket.
  • Trim left side at an angle starting 1/4″ in from upper left corner and ending at upper right side of pocket.
Step 8

Step 8

9. Stitch exterior to interior

  • Starting 3/4″ down from upper left side, stitch around entire perimeter using a 1/4″ seam.  Stop stitching about 2-1/4″ from starting point in order to leave an opening to turn receipt holder right side out.
  • Clip corner seam allowances to reduce bulk in corners.
Step 9

Step 9

10. Finish

  •  Turn receipt holder right side out. Press.
  • Handstitching opening closed, if desired (or you can close it by topstitching below).
  • Topstitch 1/8″ from edge along flap portion of holder.
Step 10

Step 10

11. Go clean out your purse!

Thanks for stopping by.  If you liked this tutorial, please tell your sewing friends, like me on facebook or pass the word around in a way that works for you.  I’d “sew” appreciate it!  🙂


Is your purse looking like a garbage dump?

Is your purse looking like a garbage dump?

It has been waaaaay too long since I sat down to write a post. And, I am so excited to say I  have two new patterns that released last week– my first table runner pattern and a new cross-body bag.  You can take a peek at the  Flower Power Table Runner and The Olivia Bag  on my website.  More on that soon!

Back to the topic at hand. Does your purse look like a garbage dump? You know, it starts out okay. You make a brand new purse, with all those great pockets, one for your phone, one for your keys, one for a pen or two, a pocket for your sunglasses. That should take care of it, right?

And it does for awhile. But over time is another matter . . . .

So, what clutters it the most?

For me, it’s kleenex, receipts, and shopping lists and other notes.  How about you?

This post is first of a “series” of posts covering small projects you can make to make the inside of your purse look as amazing as the outside.

First on the list is a kleenex holder. I initially was going to design a little kleenex holder but I found a tutorial on the web that is just amazing and exactly what I wanted so I started just sewing!

Kleenex holder

Kleenex holder

This tissue holder tutorial  is from Barb – I don’t know Barb, but I love her Halloween and Christmas kleenex holders and her instructions are easy to follow. This is a quick project, great for gifts.

***UPDATE*** Please note that I changed Barb’s directions a bit to make the tissue holder you see in the picture.  I used a 5-1/2″ x 8″ piece of fabric for the interior and a 5-1/2″  x 7″ piece of fabric for the exterior.


Being cheap frugal at our house–and for convenience–I just grabbed 10 tissues and folded them myself. Easy!

Kleenex Holder - pile of tissues

Kleenex Holder – pile of tissues

Just fold the kleenex tissue in half along the crease, then fold two more times.

Fold kleenex

Fold kleenex

Next up will be a tutorial for a receipt holder to keep all those holiday receipts from taking over your purse.

Receipt case

Receipt case

Leave a comment about what makes your purse messy. I would love to hear from you.

Happy Sewing!


E-reader meets Marimekko

I have a confession. I am a . . . little . . . crazy about Marimekko fabric, well, actually anything Marimekko.

Last summer we took a trip to Norway to celebrate our 25th anniversary. It was a trip of a lifetime.  Norway was beautiful and we had so many amazing experiences there.  While in Norway, I was on a little Marimekko hunt.  Yes, I know Marimekko is Finnish, not Norwegian. And, yes, I know Marimekko has a store in New York now, and Beverly Hills and actually a little bit is at Crate and Barrel right here in Minnesota.

BUT, somehow, it was different since we were closer to the source, and I was determined to buy something Marimekko.  So, before we left I mapped out the stores that were along our travel route.

We missed the Marimekko stores in Stockholm, Trondheim and Kristiansand because we were busy sight-seeing. Can you imagine that?

But I did find some Marimekko fabric in some fabric stores that I love. And, finally, at the end of our trip we made it to a Marikmekko store in Oslo, and now I have a cute little cup for my bathroom sink.

So, I finally used a little bit of that Marimekko fabric to make one more e-reader case. This one is for my kindle, and I’m very excited.

Here it is:

Sew an E-reader case in Marimekko

If you’d like to make a case for your e-reader or tablet, check out my e-reader case tutorial!

Now . . .  I think I need to make a purse out of the Marimekko fabric too. Soon.

Sewing Tutorial – E-Reader or Tablet Case

Are you the new owner of an e-reader or tablet? Or are you interested in making a nice gift for someone who owns one? I love my Kindle and enjoy reading it but I often don’t bring it places because I’m afraid it will get damaged. Even if you have a nice leather case that opens up like a book, it is not great protection against spills or scratches that might happen when you’re on the go.

Case in point. I carry a small bottle of hand sanitizer in my purse and recently I reached into my purse to grab my keys and smelled something I shouldn’t. The bottle had somehow opened up and oozed little bits all over everything. No problem, really, besides the overwhelming disinfectant smell coming out of my purse, but I was glad I didn’t have anything valuable in there–-like my Kindle!

A simple padded case is a quick and easy project.  With this tutorial, we’ll walk through installing a zipper, adding a strap and working with the thicker interfacing that provides the protection we’re looking for.  Here’s what the case will look like – this one is sewn in another couple of fat quarters from Kate Spain’s Cuzco collection.

Sew E-Reader Case.Finished2

 2 fat quarters of fabric, one for the exterior and one for the lining
 1 Zipper, probably 10” or less, depending on the size of your e-reader or tablet
 1 D-Ring (1/2” on the inside of the flat side)
 1 Swivel Snap Hook with a 1/2” wide opening for the strap
 Thread and other basic sewing supplies
 Your favorite interfacing/interlining

Note on interfacing: If you have a favorite one, go ahead and use it. Just make sure to pick something that offers some decent padding for your e-reader or tablet. If you’re unsure, here are a couple of suggestions:

1. If you want a soft spongy layer of protection: Annie’s Soft and Stable™ is a good option for an easy-to-sew stabilizer that has some cushion–it can be basted to the exterior pieces. When I use Soft and Stable™, I first fuse a woven, fusible interfacing, such as Pellon® SF101, onto the wrong size of the exterior pieces and then baste on the Soft and Stable™.

2. If you want to do it the easiest way: You could iron on fusible fleece to your exterior pieces and use a woven, fusible interfacing on the lining pieces.  If you are a beginner, this is a good method to use because it is not as bulky and consequently is easier to sew.

3. Quilt it: Pin lightweight cotton batting to the two exterior pieces and quilt a fun design on it. I would recommend stabilizing the fabric with a woven, fusible interfacing prior to quilting.

4. If you don’t really want a padded feel, but still want protection: Try Pellon® #926 extra firm stabilizer or Lazy Girl’s Stiff Stuff. Lazy Girl’s Stiff Stuff is a little thicker, but both these products give a nice sleek exterior with protection but not a padded look or feel. I treat these products like I do Annie’s Soft and Stable™–first I fuse on a woven fusible to give the fabric more body. Then, I machine baste on the stabilizer so nothing’s sliding around.

All right, enough of the interfacing talk. Let’s get sewing!

Step 1: Measure
Start by measuring your e-reader or tablet. If you are making a case to go over a protective lining or skin, measure the e-reader/tablet in the protective lining or skin.

Add 1-1/2” to the height and 2-1/4” to the width to get cutting measurements for a case that isn’t snug, but fits fairly close to the device. For a little more wiggle room or if you have a thicker tablet, add 1-3/4” to  2″ to the height and 2-1/2”  to 2-3/4″ to the width.

In my case, I have a Kindle Keyboard, which measures 7-1/2” H x 5” W, so I will be cutting out pieces 9” H x 7-1/4” W.

Sew E-reader Case. Measure

Step 2: Cut

Cut out 4 pieces of fabric – 2 for the exterior and 2 for the lining, using the measurements you arrived at in Step 1.

Cut a 1-1/2″ x 3″ rectangle out of the exterior fabric to make the zipper end-stops.

Cut out a 2″ x 14″ rectangle out of the exterior fabric, and subcut into two pieces: a 2″ x 12″ piece for the strap and a 2″ x 2″ for the D-ring tab for the strap.

Sew E-reader Case. Cutting (larger)

Step 3: Stabilize pieces

For this tutorial, I am using a woven, fusible interfacing (Pellon® SF101) and Annie’s Soft and Stable™ because I like the additional padding it will provide for an e-reader.  Please refer to the discussion above for some other good stabilizer choices.

Cut 4 pieces of woven, fusible interfacing the same size as your exterior and lining pieces and fuse to wrong side of those pieces.

Cut a 2″ x 12″ piece of the woven, fusible interfacing and fuse it onto the wrong side of the strap.

Cut out two pieces of Annie’s Soft and Stable™ in the size of the exterior pieces.  Pin and baste these onto the two exterior pieces using a 1/8″ seam, pivoting at the corners with the needle down.

TIP: It’s easier to baste if you have the Soft and Stable™ on top when you are stitching.  If you have a walking foot, that helps too, but it isn’t necessary.

The zipper end–stop piece and the strap tab do not need interfacing.

Step 4: Create wrist strap, D-ring tab, and zipper end-stops

You will use the same basic process to create the zipper end-stops, the D-ring tab, and the wrist strap so we’ll do these together.

Fold the 1-1/2″ x 3″ zipper end-stop piece in half so that it is 3/4″ x 3″.  Fold the wrist strap in half so that it is 1″ x 12″ .  Fold the D-ring tab so that it is 1″ x 2″. Press each piece.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.1

Open up each piece and fold the edges into the center.  Press.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.2

Refold each piece along the centerfold and press again. Cut the zipper end-stop piece in half.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.3

Open up the D-ring tab, wrist strap and two zipper stops and cut notches out of the ends to reduce bulk.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.4

Stitch the D-ring tab and wrist strap 1/8″ from each side.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.5

Insert the D-ring onto the D-ring tab and fold the tab in half.  Stitch across the tab 1/8″ from the raw edges.

Sew E-reader Case. D-ringTab

Insert the wrist strap into the swivel snap hook and fold in half with the raw ends aligned.  Stitch 1/4″ from the raw edges.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.6

Turn the wrist strap inside out so that the raw edges are on the inside, facing the hardware.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.7

Fold the raw edges toward the hardware and stitch across the width of the strap close to the hardware.

Sew E-reader Case. Handle.8

Step 5: Attach end-stops

Open your zipper and stitch across the width of the zipper about a 1/4″ inside the zipper stop.

Sew E-reader Case. End stop 1

Cut off the zipper stop.  The zipper needs to be 3/4″ shorter than the width of the fabric.  Measure and cut off the excess zipper from the other end.

Sew E-reader Case. End stop 2

Slip the fabric end-stops over the raw ends of the zipper and stitch across the width, as shown. Trim off the excess fabric even with zipper tape after stitching.

Sew E-reader Case. End stop 3

Step 6: Attach zipper to case

Center the zipper on one of the exterior pieces, right sides together (RST), meaning that the zipper pull is facing the exterior fabric.

Align the edge of the zipper tape with the top edge of the fabric and handstitch the zipper to the fabric about 1/8″ from the edge.

TIP: You may be tempted to take the shortcut and baste with your machine.  Resist the temptation! If you handbaste, the zipper won’t move out of place on you, and you’ll find it much easier to install . . . do I dare say it’s even fun?

Sew E-reader Case. Attach Zipper 1

Pin a  lining piece with the right side of the lining facing the wrong side of the zipper, as shown below, and stitch 1/4″ from the edge.

Sew E-reader Case. Attach Zipper 2

TIP: With some plastic zippers, you might not even need a zipper foot with this method. If your machine is like mine, it is a great advantage to use your regular foot because it engages with the feed dogs better so that you are better able to push through the bulky interfacing. Without the regular foot, you may have to coax your machine to get over the end-stop at the beginning–If you have difficulty with the bulk, I would suggest starting about an inch onto the zipper and backstitch to the beginning, then stitch forward to the end.

Fold exterior and lining pieces away from the zipper so that they are facing each other, wrong sides together (WRT).  Press.

Topstitch 1/8″ from seam.

Sew E-reader Case. Attach Zipper 3

Next, you will follow the same steps to attach the exterior and lining to the other side of the zipper tape.  Center the other exterior piece to the other half of the zipper tape, RST, and handstitch in place.

Pin the other lining piece with the right side of the lining facing the wrong side of the zipper and stitch 1/4″ from the edge.

Fold exterior and lining pieces away from zipper so that they are facing each other, WRT. Press.

Topstitch 1/8″ from zipper tape. When you are done it will look like this:

Sew E-reader Case. Attach Zipper 4

Step 7: Attach D-ring tab

Fold the D-ring tab in half with the raw ends aligned and stitch the strap onto one exterior piece 1/4″ down from zipper.  It can be attached on the left or the right side, whatever you prefer.

TIP: Make sure to only stitch it to the exterior fabric–-you will need to move the lining out of the way.

Sew E-reader Case. Attach D-ringTab

Step 8: Stitch exterior and lining

Open the zipper all the way open.  Do not skip this step!

Fold the case so that the two exterior pieces are right sides together (RST) and the two lining pieces are RST.  Pin on all sides.  The zipper will be between the two layers on the lining side. You will notice that the zipper end-stops do not extend the full width of the case–You will be stitching just to the outside of the zipper end-stops where it is less bulky.

Starting on the lining side, stitch around the entire case with a 3/8″ seam, leaving a 4″ gap on a lining side so that you can turn the case right side out after stitching.  Pivot at the corners with the needle down.

TIP: You may wish to make the lining slightly smaller than the exterior so that it fits more snugly inside the exterior. For example, you can stitch the lining with a 3/8″ seam and as you get close to the exterior side of the case gradually bring the seam allowance to a 1/4″ seam. Stitch the exterior side with a 1/4″ seam and move out to a 3/8″ after you cross back to the lining side.

Sew E-reader Case.Stitch case

Step 9: Turn case out

Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners. Turn the case right side out through the opening you left in the side of the lining. Use a pencil or other tool to gently push out the corners until they lay square.

Step 10: Finishing

Slipstitch the opening closed and tuck the lining into the case.

Clip the strap onto the D-ring.

Enjoy your new e-reader or tablet case!

Making mistakes so you don’t have to?

I’ve just drafted a tutorial to make a simple zipped e-reader or tablet case. There’s just one problem.

I decided to add a strap to this one because after all, straps are nice. But did I have the hardware I needed? Nooooooooooo. Did I wait until I had the hardware? Nooooooooo. Did I make the strap without the D-ring and swivel snap hook? Yep, and oops, that was a mistake. While it was an interesting experiment, the strap is sticking straight out.

Here is a picture of it, made in fun Cuzco fabric designed by Kate Spain.
Sew an E-reader Case Tutorial 1 (autocorrrected)

Just don’t look at the strap.

Come back soon for the e-reader case tutorial. It will be here soon. I promise.